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T O P I C    R E V I E W
johnc Posted - 01 May 2012 : 12:46:26
I recently posted a question but then deleted it thinking I had resolved the problem but sadly I have not. so here I go again.
My Series IV has been fitted (before I acquired it) with an all syncro box married to an 8 inch spring clutch but was fitted with a release bearing and pivot pedestal from a diaphragm clutch,this worked before I dismantled it several years ago.I have fitted a release bearing and pedestal (after discussion with Mike Langley)of the correct type for the 8 inch spring clutch but find that the push rod is at the limit of its travel when the clutch is depressed but the clutch is not released,in fact there is no movement of the lever at all.I have replaced the seals in the master and slave cylinders and the system has been bled properly.
The nub of the problem seems to be that the push rod from the slave cylinder to the operating lever is too short,the parts book does show two rods,one for the S11a and another for the SIV,am I correct in thinking that the S11a is longer than that for the SIV ? If this is the case then it seems that my car has been fitted with a short rod for diaphragm clutch.
Next question does anyone have a spare longer push rod for the slave cylinder?

Cheers
John

Further thought,I've found a spare push rod in my 'bits' bin the same length as the one fitted,if anyone could tell what length a rod for a diaphragm clutch should be I can modify the spare and see if it works.

The Saga continues........

Work on the Rapier ground to a halt for some time and the clutch problem is still unresolved.
I made a temporary new 'push rod' out of threaded bar allowing the length to be varied just see if the origional rod was too short,to no effect.I've fitted a new master cylinder and bled the system to no avail.The pedal is very soft although it appears to operate the slave cylinder as the push rod becomes rock solid against the release bearing operating level but seems to have insufficient travel to operate the the clutch pressure plate springs.By levering the operating arm through the aperture in the bellhousing I've confirmed that the springs etc operate satisfactorily.
The car is on axle stands and I've run it after engaging third gear and all seems OK,i.e.drive to wheels,although overdrive does not engage but that's another problem to be explored later.
It has been suggested that I may have put the friction plate in the wrong way round when I installed the new cluch but I was careful not to do this but you never know!
As an aboslute last resort I suppose I shall have to drop the box and remove the clutch.
This is now the only issue that is preventing me getting the old girl back on the road so any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers
John
9   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Arran Posted - 03 Jul 2014 : 15:54:16
Well done!!! And now enjoy a great summer with the «old girl».

Best greetings from the Isle of Arran in Scotland.
johnc Posted - 03 Jul 2014 : 14:32:23
Hi to everyone who offered help,

I checked the location of the slave cylinder (behind the bellhousing)correct,checked that the bleed valve was on the top of the slave cylinder,incorrect,swopped the pipe and bleed valve around,added a couple of washers between the cylinder and bellhousing to 'extend 'the push rod travel,rebled the system and voila the old girl now moves under her own steam for the first time in 14 years.

Regards
johnc
janmarine3 Posted - 27 Jun 2014 : 07:34:19
Indeed ! Taking photos of things before stripping them ...and reading instructions before plugging them in and the smoke comes out of it is good advice...
turbinecol Posted - 26 Jun 2014 : 13:22:49
yes, did the same thing when putting the Sceptre back together recently. Fortunately a slight mis-match on the cleanliness of the various machined faces made my friend question the way I'd put it. Quick check of some reference photos I'd taken, and sure enough slave cylinder was the wrong way round. These days it would be poke yoke to prevent it...

lesson is take lots of photos...
pruyter Posted - 25 Jun 2014 : 14:23:14
Hi Stella,

But.....was the slave placed on the gearbox side before Clive's inspection? The red face you mentioned could be caused by his hard work regarding the inspection or.....a little shame because of a mistake. Should he have placed it on the wrong side just know that a lot of people before him have been in exactly the same situation.
Don't ask how I know!
Regards,
Peter
Stella Posted - 25 Jun 2014 : 12:25:56
Hi Peter

A rather red-faced Clive came back from the garage this morning... my car is working perfectly now....

And this afternoon we have received the replacement Master, Slave and rehab bits ordered from AWM.. so Clive will swap the old for the new, refurbish the old with the kits and keep them for spares...

Never a dull moment, is there...


xxx Stella
pruyter Posted - 25 Jun 2014 : 10:57:59
Hi Stella,

Now I am of course curious what the result is of the inspection Clive did.

Regards,

Peter
Stella Posted - 25 Jun 2014 : 08:43:37
Thanks for this thought Peter

Clive has just dashed back to the garage to check which side he put the slave cylinder....

Stella
pruyter Posted - 22 Jun 2014 : 09:02:55
Hi John,

did you install the slave cylinder at the right side of the gearbox? If you have it on the wrong side than the push rod is never able to go far enough.The correct side is the back side of the bell housing i.e. the gearbox side. You wouldn't be the first one who has made this mistake.
Another thing to review is that the slave cylinder has two holes in the end of the slave. The TOP hole is for the little valve screw (bleeding screw). The BOTTOM hole is where the pipe from the master goes. If they are switched you never get it bleeded properly. Also this mistake has been made before.

I myself have a 1965 Rapier series 4a which has originally a full synchromesh gearbox and just yesterday I bought here in the Netherlands at RPS a new 7.5 inch clutch which is also the original set up. On top of that I bought from RPS a roller ball release bearing, not the type with the plastic housing which is available in England, but a metal type which has a completely closed housing so that dirt is unable to get in. The roller type release bearing reducts the friction between the bearing and the clutch cover.

The 8 inch system belongs to the Rapier series 3a and 4, while the 8.5 inch system was intalled on the Rapier H120.The 8.5 inch system should work on your Rapier (if installed with the correct flywheel) but isn't needed for normal road use unless you are driving rallies with it.
Regards,
Peter

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